Oil Change!

Royal Purple and Purolator.

EGR?

Well maybe we've got this thing close to being acceptably licked. I took the EGR valve off and put a calibration disc in that's about two sizes smaller than the one called for in the instructions. The I tried replacing the 5-way ported vacuum switch, but managed to break the new one. Not having a special socket for the task, I decided to put the old one back in for now, ordering both a new switch and a socket to make a special tool out of, and drive the car in the meantime and see how the recalibration works. Well it works very well! I don't have nearly the amount of hesitation when the valve opens as there was. I'd say in most cases it's imperceptable. BUt even when you can feel it, it is very slight. I'll leave it at that. The replacement ported vacuum switch may help even more, but if not, I think it is OK the way it is. Otherwise, I think the next step is to get the carb rebuilt with an eye to the ported vacuum tap being carefully investigated. You should be able to adjust the idle speed and not get into the range where vacuum starts pulling at that port. And it shoudln't be a sometime thing, but consistant.

More EGR issues!!!

This morning on the way to work, the EGR was really making the engine run rough and bog down. It woudl nearly die at stop lights and buck when I gave it a little gas. But eventually it smoothed out and I went to work without much further fuss. On the way home, all seemed well until I got off the freeway, then it was pinging like crazy and the idle was high... like no EGR at all.

I already had run into trouble with the 5 port vacuum port switch not running the Thermac system properly. It was allowing vacuum to the heat/cold door on the air cleaner snorkel when the engine was hot, which made the engine ping like crazy. I moved it to another port that is not used on my car where vacuum is cut off at the same time vacuum is turned on to EGR. And now this!

I ordered a different brand of vacuum port switches (yes, both the 3 and 5 port switches) and hopefully this will solve the problem. Once that is resolved, I think I need to either put the original EGR valve back in the car or recalibrate the new one with a different metering disc. It seems to be a bit too heavy on the exhaust gas intro. That or the carb needs to be rebuilt. What a mess!

Salerno's Auto Air

Sometimes it takes a little help from a professional. I took Helen over to Salerno's Auto Air and showed them my problem. Terry pointed out that the thin tube would overheat and melt before the thick block it was attached to would let the braising material melt to seal the crack. He figured it was better to get a replacement part. I left the car with him all day and he found one replacement part, put fresh hose on it, charged the system and found no other leaks. I think we're back in business. :D Blows nice and cold again.

A/C Leak

No luck on the A/C leak. It seems there is a second problem that is due to a tiny crack where the aluminum tube is brazed onto the block that attaches at the back of the compressor. Wow, no chance of getting a replacement any time soon. I guess I will have to break down and take the car over to a shop that can repair the crack. It would be so nice to have a spare to drop off and have refreshed with barrier hose, but I can't drive tha car in this heat anyway. Phooey!

A/C

Well, it may not be the o-rings on the compressor that are leaking after all. When the car was converted to use 134a, the kit they used had a high pressure adapter that has a 90° swivel bend in it. I was checking to see if it was loose and it turns out it was. I started to tighten it down but then though I'd better check the o-ring in it... voila! The o-ring is toast.
Closer inspection reveals that this o-ring is even more critical than usual on an adapter. The adapters I've seen are straight and very short. They do not have their own schrader valve but rely on the original R-12 valve. The o-ring in these adapters is only to seal when charging the system. As soon as the hose set is removed from the adapter, the original core seals shut and the o-ring does nothing, essentially. But because this adapter has the bend, the original core was removed and there is a schrader valve in the adapter instead. The o-ring now has to hold pressure all of the time, not just when charging. And with the swivel, it has to be a perfect seal or it leaks like crazy. Copper flare-nut type swivels, which this is similar to, can be really tightened down to seal and the soft copper will crimp itself to the shape needed to seal as you go tighter. But you can only tighten this swivel down so far before the o-ring distorts and tears... exactly what happened.

Off to Pep Boys for a replacement high side adapter... of course they only had the pair in a full conversion kit. No matter, it included a new schrader valve core, which I was going to need as mine had been removed. The bend in the old adapter had made it easier to connect the charging hose, but I found that it wasn't much more trouble to connect with the straight stubby one though. The seal will be so much more reliable it will be well worth any minor inconvenience anyway.

Right now I have a 15 in vacuum pulled on the system and I'm waiting to see if it holds. I had already ordered an assortment of o-rings and if the system won't hold the vacuum I'll need to wait for them to arrive before I can charge. But I think these o-rings are OK. For one thing, the compressor is a rebuilt unit and the rings are green, so they are correct for 134a. They can't be that old!

Thermal Vac Switches

Replaced the two thermal vacuum port switches that manage all the smog control devices. I seem to have them back to working in harmony again now.

Unfortunately, when I charged up the A/C system I found that the compressor is leaking at the back where the hose pad connects. Probably just the o-rings but now I need to find a set that work with 134a.