[78300] 100 miles since replacing the carb and Helen sure drives smooth with the new one. Starts up nicely, choke pull off works perfectly. Cold driving and the transition as the choke backs off have no impact on the EGR as far as stumbling or anything... very nice! I wish I had done this earlier. I'd have to say this carb works the best of any I have ever had rebuilt. RECARBCO.COM.

Carburetor and Fan Clutch

[78200] I changed out both the carb and the fan clutch today. I had ordered the carb from a place called ReCarbCo on the Web. The OEM number of the original carb was 17056240. The replacement was a different number but was a perfect fit. Best of all, she fired right up and runs nice. No test drive yet. I'll do that tomorrow. [Test drove just beautifully!]

Smog

Tyerman got the car to pass smog ($450 later) by replacing plugs, wires, cap, rotor, carb base gasket, and general mussing. The car not only passed smog, but generally seems to run better, except for at idle. It shook like a scared puppy at idle. I think I have that resolved by making the choke stay partly closed... the system has been running way lean anyway. I think a fresh carb is in order eventually.

Smog

Helen failed her smog test today. Too much NO, which means that stinking EGR valve problem I had, or what I thought was an EGR valve problem, is rearing it's head again. I'm taking it to Tyerman's tomorrow to let them figure it out.

Removed the Satellite radio and the HD radio from the glove box. Added a Bluetooth interface for the iPhone so I can play iPod or Pandora/Internet radio and take calls through the stereo.

Oil Change!

Royal Purple and Purolator.

EGR?

Well maybe we've got this thing close to being acceptably licked. I took the EGR valve off and put a calibration disc in that's about two sizes smaller than the one called for in the instructions. The I tried replacing the 5-way ported vacuum switch, but managed to break the new one. Not having a special socket for the task, I decided to put the old one back in for now, ordering both a new switch and a socket to make a special tool out of, and drive the car in the meantime and see how the recalibration works. Well it works very well! I don't have nearly the amount of hesitation when the valve opens as there was. I'd say in most cases it's imperceptable. BUt even when you can feel it, it is very slight. I'll leave it at that. The replacement ported vacuum switch may help even more, but if not, I think it is OK the way it is. Otherwise, I think the next step is to get the carb rebuilt with an eye to the ported vacuum tap being carefully investigated. You should be able to adjust the idle speed and not get into the range where vacuum starts pulling at that port. And it shoudln't be a sometime thing, but consistant.